In an era dominated by mass production, the allure of individuality and exclusivity has never been stronger. This shift has been evident in various luxury sectors, from fashion and automobiles to the more intimate realm of personal care. This evolution has also permeated the world of fragrance, where niche and artisan perfumes are gaining significant traction.

For Roja Dove, Founder of British perfumery house ROJA, “Creating a fragrance is like painting a picture, but we just don’t use paint. We’re telling stories or poems, but we just don’t use words.” 

He shares his thoughts on the rise of niche and artisan fragrances, emphasizing their emphasis on individuality, quality, and authenticity, as well as how the Middle Eastern tradition of Aoud influences his creations.

THE CREATIVE & THE CHALLENGE  

Dove says that wearing perfume is like viewing a great piece of art. “You must give in to it and let your emotions take over.”

He begins his creative process by selecting a name, which serves as a visual and olfactory guide. For “Elixir,” the concept of a transformative potion inspired a fragrance designed to evoke a woman who can captivate a room with her mere presence.

While describing “Reckless,” he said, “I was reading a book in which a woman said, ‘Reckless maybe, foolish never.’ What a fabulous statement.” Inspired by this, he envisioned a woman driven by passion and adventure, fearlessly pursuing her desires.

For “Scandal,” Dove sought to capture the essence of a sensation that demands attention. The fragrance is a bold, white floral composition centered around tuberose, designed to be as unforgettable as the subject of a scandal.

Dove’s bestselling fragrance, Taif Aoud, celebrates Saudi Arabia’s rich natural resources. Inspired by the high-altitude growth of the Taif rose, Dove aimed to capture the essence of the morning sun illuminating the mountainside and its blossoms. Another bestseller, Isola Blu, is a fragrant tribute to the Riviera. Designed for those seeking the epitome of luxury and modernity, it encapsulates the essence of the glamorous coastal lifestyle.

“If you have a clear story or character in your head when creating a fragrance, you can achieve your dreams,” says Dove. “Like a play, the creation of a fragrance needs a beginning, a middle, and an end. Every perfume tells a story and can help tell your story. Perfume is your most intimate accessory. It extends who you are, reflecting your personality, which must take you everywhere. Ensure the style of scent you wear conveys the personality you project to the world.”

Dove asserts that the most significant shift in the fragrance industry is the popularity of niche and luxury perfumes. In contrast to the celebrity fragrance-dominated 90s, consumers now seek unique, high-quality scents with integrity. The internet has played a crucial role in this evolution, facilitating discovery, sharing, and a broader reach for niche perfumes.

“An exceptional perfume will trigger an emotion within you while discreetly delivering quality, luxury, and sophistication – a fragrance that will become a part of them forever.”

THE INFLUENCE OF DUBAI 

“Perfume” means so many things to so many people, says Dove. 

The people of the Middle East are both proud and discreet about their choice of scent, he adds. Among the most legendary materials used in perfumery is Aoud (or Oud), a fragrant resin harvested from the heart of the Aquilaria tree. This oil is unique because it matures over time, with some aouds over a hundred years old. Such ancient aouds can cost thousands of pounds for just a few milliliters. While most of this oil is used as a perfume, small pieces are often burned on hot charcoals to scent clothes, wardrobes, and homes. When burned, this practice of “perfuming” is preserved, and the aoud becomes known as Bakhoor.

Aoud is deeply ingrained in Middle Eastern culture. “We have a significant Middle Eastern clientele, and directly or indirectly, we supply almost every royal household in the region. For three years, I spent a couple of weeks in the Middle East each month, immersing myself in studying aoud and its traditions.”

One of the great pleasures of getting to know the traditions of the Gulf was to see how aoud forms the basis of an individual’s fragrance, adds Dove.

Traditionally, Middle Eastern clients mix aoud into their skincare, bath, or body products. Many use it as a base for other fragrances due to its exceptional ability to hold scent. As a relative of sandalwood, aoud is known for its rich, warm, and sensual qualities.

Aoud has become super popular; many perfume companies make their own versions. Because of this, it has become a style of perfume, not just a single smell. 

As aoud evolves from a cherished tradition into a defining fragrance trend, it raises the question: how will it continue to inspire and transform the world of modern perfumery?