The global luxury watch market is entering a new phase of steady expansion, driven by shifting consumer behaviour and the growing appeal of timepieces as both financial assets and status symbols. 

Valued at more than $45 billion in 2024, the sector is projected to continue its upward trajectory, with forecasts placing its compound annual growth rate (CAGR) anywhere between 1.5% and 12.23% through 2032, depending on market dynamics and regional performance.

Industry analysts say demand is being supported not only by rising disposable incomes, but also by a surge of interest in pre-owned luxury watches — a segment increasingly viewed as a gateway for younger buyers and a reliable alternative investment class. 

This blend of prestige, perceived long-term value and evolving retail channels is reshaping how consumers engage with the world’s most coveted timepiece brands.

When it comes to the Middle East, luxury watches are also a substantial market, valued at over $1.19 billion in 2023 and projected to grow at a CAGR of 3.5% to 5.3% through 2030. 

Not only are they a status symbol, but they also promote significant tourism, especially in cities like Dubai. 

Leaving their mark in the industry and the region is Swiss brand Vanguart. Co-Founder and President Mehmet Koruturk speaks about his journey of breaking into a heritage-entrenched industry.

LEAVING A MARK

As Vanguart was founded in 2017, Koruturk said he could feel a shift in the industry where collectors were becoming more curious and open to new voices. 

“What we realized early was that the next generation didn’t want another reinterpretation of the past — they wanted new codes, new mechanics, and new stories.”

He states that seeing how fast this appetite was accelerating became an “aha” moment for the brand. “We knew that if we built something technically serious yet emotionally daring, we could stand next to century-old maisons on merit, not on age.”

He notes that for Vanguart, innovation is not about disruption for its own sake, but about restoring a sense of joy to haute horlogerie.

“Vanguart’s engineering culture is extremely classical: traditional finishing, hand-assembled components, and a deep respect for mechanical rigor,” he states. “But the design language is where we allow ourselves to dream. Playfulness comes through in the movement architecture, in the dynamic displays, and in the way light interacts with materials.”

“We respect the past, but we refuse to be confined by it. That tension  between Swiss heritage and creative risk is our signature,” he adds. 

PRICING AND SALES

Koruturk also discusses the brand’s approach to pricing, noting that, for collectors, premium pricing is justified by three key factors reflected in Vanguart’s work.

He first highlights scarcity by nature, not by marketing. “We produce extremely few pieces because our movements take time to build. That scarcity is real, not manufactured,” he says.

He also points to original mechanics, explaining that collectors immediately recognize that Vanguart’s calibers differ from anything else on the market. The third factor is what he describes as a new aesthetic chapter. While heritage remains important, Koruturk says originality holds greater value. “Our collectors appreciate that we’re contributing something new to horology’s vocabulary.”

Koruturk adds that direct sales and limited distribution are also central to the brand’s model.

“Direct sales are important to us because they allow intimacy. We know every collector personally, we understand where each piece goes, and we build a long-term relationship that lasts far beyond the purchase. That closeness is essential when you produce so few watches.”

At the same time, he says the brand partners with a very small number of retailers who share its philosophy and can strengthen its presence in regions where trust and heritage are crucial.

“In the Middle East, our partner is Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, one of the strongest opinion leaders in global watchmaking.

“Our relationship with Seddiqi is not transactional — it’s educational. We learn a tremendous amount from them: about the region’s tastes, expectations, and culture of collecting. Their support accelerates our credibility, and our direct-sales mindset ensures that we remain close to the client.”

DESIGN AND CRAFTSMANSHIP

Koruturk also discusses the design process and the risks Vanguart is willing to take. He explains that the brand relies on three guiding signals: the first is mechanical purpose, meaning a complication must express something meaningful or offer a real solution rather than exist for complexity’s sake. 

The second is emotional resonance — design should spark a sense of wonder. “If collectors smile when they see it, we know we’re onto something.” 

The third is long-term manufacturability, with Vanguart pursuing ideas that can remain sustainable for decades.

Koruturk says the greatest challenge lies in meeting the brand’s own standards.

“When you design movements that are unconventional and highly architectural, the finishing becomes exponentially more complex. Every bevel, every interior angle, every surface treatment demands extraordinary skill.”

He adds that Vanguart approaches this complexity by building a strong internal team of finishers, many of whom come from highly regarded workshops and share the same obsession with detail.

“Instead of relying on large external networks, we’ve doubled down on internal expertise. It gives us more control, more consistency, and more creative freedom. The result is that each piece reflects not only mechanical innovation but also the unique signature of the artisans who finish it.”

CULTURAL RELEVANCE

Ensuring that a brand’s story resonates with collectors is essential, particularly when navigating cultural differences. Koruturk speaks about next-generation collectors in the Middle East, noting that the region’s buyers are highly educated, digitally native, and culturally confident. “They don’t just want luxury — they want meaning.”

He says he connects with these audiences by offering design that feels modern rather than nostalgic, a direct relationship with the founder, a narrative rooted in innovation that aligns with the region’s forward-looking outlook, and a presence at major cultural and art events, not only watch fairs.

“The Middle East doesn’t want the past repeated; they want the future authored. That’s where we resonate strongly.”

Koruturk adds that collectors differ slightly across regions. While they share the same passion, he says their expressions vary. 

The Middle East is experience-driven, highly relational, and appreciative of bold aesthetics; collectors in Europe lean toward quiet connoisseurship, valuing depth, tradition, and technical nuance; and buyers in Asia often demonstrate a balance of intellectual curiosity and appreciation for rarity.

“We adapt not by changing the product, but by changing how we tell the story. The watch remains the same — the narrative adjusts to the collector’s cultural lens.”

TECH AND SUSTAINABILITY

Koruturk also addresses emerging pillars in the industry, discussing how technology is shaping Vanguart’s product roadmap.

“At Vanguart, R&D is one of the largest and most important parts of our company. We invest heavily in exploring new sciences, materials, and engineering methods — not to replace traditional craftsmanship, but to push it forward.” He notes that emerging technologies allow the brand to prototype faster, test ideas more precisely, and imagine mechanical architectures that would have been impossible a decade ago.

“But despite this high-tech backbone, our watches will always remain purely mechanical. The emotional value of a mechanical movement — assembled by hand, finished by artisans, and built to last generations — is central to our identity. We see technology as a powerful enabler, not a replacement.”

He adds that the future of Vanguart is a blend of deep respect for centuries-old craft, supported by cutting-edge research and bold innovation. Koruturk also highlights sustainability as a core principle, emphasizing the brand’s focus on longevity and durability. 

This approach includes prioritizing local Swiss sourcing whenever possible, using traceable suppliers for precious materials, producing low-volume, high-quality runs to minimize waste, and ensuring repairability and long-term serviceability.

“Sustainability is not a marketing theme for us — it is embedded in how we craft and how slowly we scale.”

Koruturk reflects on the personal convictions and habits he has applied throughout his journey with Vanguart, noting that he makes a point of maintaining his curiosity and asking, “Why not?” before asking, “Why?”

“What I had to unlearn is perfectionism as a delaying force. In watchmaking, perfection is mandatory, but perfectionism in business can slow you down.I learned to move fast decisions while keeping the product uncompromising. That balance defines Vanguart today.”