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How Ulysse Nardin balances radical thinking with disciplined execution

The thinking, the risks, and the craft behind the watches

How Ulysse Nardin balances radical thinking with disciplined execution
[Source photo: Ulysse Nardin | Krishna Prasad/Fast Company Middle East]

When Matthieu Haverlan speaks about success, he rarely begins with numbers. He talks about people. The watchmakers who stay late to solve a stubborn technical challenge. The enamellers who spend hours perfecting a single shade on a dial. At Ulysse Nardin, his leadership has been shaped by a belief that real innovation comes from the hands and minds behind the work, not just the technology itself.

Since taking on the role of Managing Director, Haverlan has overseen one of the most ambitious periods in the brand’s modern history, launching new calibers at a pace few manufacturers attempt, while tightening the brand’s focus on retail and positioning. 

He reflects on why risk-taking remains central to the maison, how loyalty inside the workshops has become a competitive advantage, and what it means to build a future that feels both precise and human.

FROM COMPLEXITY TO CLARITY

When Haverlan joined Ulysse Nardin, he wanted to give the brand a sharper sense of direction. “When I took on this role, my first priority was to bring clarity and focus, to define exactly who we are and what we stand for.” He describes the maison as long having been “a laboratory of ideas,” but says leadership needed to reconnect that creativity to a clear ambition. The team focused on anchoring strategy around a single goal: to inspire innovation and foster human ambition.

For Haverlan, every new watch must deliver more than novelty. “At Ulysse Nardin, we strongly believe that each new timepiece must carry strong inner value, through innovation and design.” Developments begin with bold choices, often requiring significant investment, but they cannot compromise quality, ergonomics, or fair pricing. 

“However, we never compromise on quality, ergonomics, or the fairness of our price positioning.” Projects that fail these standards are rarely continued, and above all, authenticity drives the brand. “For us, true beauty emerges through innovation, when technology, design, and emotion come together to transform the simple measurement of time into art.”

FROM CONCEPT TO CALIBER

The Freak line has long been a symbol of radical engineering at Ulysse Nardin. 

Haverlan explains that the collection’s intent is embedded in its very name. “The Freak’s DNA is to be radical, in name, design, and technical principle. It revolutionised watchmaking from the ground up.” Within the collection, the Freak X offers a more versatile and accessible interpretation, which the team refers to as the “daily Freak.” “No dial, no hands, the movement itself tells time,” he notes. 

This approach allows the brand to maintain the Freak as a laboratory for experimentation while making its innovations usable and visible to a wider audience.

When it comes to moving a new escapement or movement concept from prototype to production, Haverlan says the process is intensive. For an integrated manufacturer like Ulysse Nardin, developing a new calibre is comparable to building a new engine, with high investment and no room for compromise. He stresses the importance of experience, internal expertise, and technical know-how in making these decisions. The house launches at least two new calibres each year, which he attributes to confidence in both the manufacturing capabilities and the loyalty of the watchmakers. “That’s also why our technicians are so loyal: they know they’ll always be inspired, constantly learning, and never standing still.”

Haverlan also highlights that even in an era of high-tech innovation, traditional finishing remains central to the brand’s identity. Ulysse Nardin combines cutting-edge silicon technology with centuries-old crafts. “From Donzé Cadrans and enamelling to hand finishing and decorative arts, these two dimensions define who we are and constantly feed one another,” he says. Machining ensures precision, but the human touch, including engraving, guillochage, and enamelling, adds depth and soul. 

Since 1846, the maison has built its reputation on the fusion of heritage and innovation, a dialogue between technology and artistry that, Haverlan insists, continues to define its identity.

FROM PRESENCE TO PURPOSE

Haverlan says the Middle East has always been a region with a deep appreciation for fine watchmaking and meaningful relationships. For him, success is not measured solely by sales but by sharing passion, building genuine connections, and contributing to a vibrant watchmaking culture. 

“For us, success is about sharing our passion, building genuine connections, and contributing to a vibrant watchmaking culture,” he says. 

He highlights the collaboration with Ahmed Seddiqi as a key part of this ecosystem. Through initiatives such as Dubai Watch Week, the platform brings together brands, collectors, and enthusiasts while inspiring a new generation of watch lovers. “It’s a celebration of independence, creativity, and craftsmanship that perfectly reflects Ulysse Nardin’s spirit,” he notes. 

Ultimately, he believes success comes from earning trust and instilling pride in ownership. “When people recognise in our watches both innovation and authenticity, that’s the true measure of success.”

Haverlan also observes that clients in different regions respond differently to colours, materials, and sizes. He stresses that Ulysse Nardin prioritises authenticity and personality in every creation. Each timepiece is designed to carry a distinct signature shaped by innovation and emotion, giving collectors a sense of owning something genuinely unique. He explains that this approach guides global product development, ensuring that the maison does not simply produce watches to please everyone.

On distribution, Haverlan says the focus is on consistency between product strategy, retail presence, and communication. Expansion is not about opening more doors but about delivering a consistent experience at every touchpoint. “We are continuing to refine and reduce our retail footprint, always prioritising quality over quantity,” he explains. The maison prioritises partnerships that share its values and long-term vision, emphasising selectivity and service. Whether through its own boutiques or trusted retailers, the goal is to provide clients with an environment that allows them to fully experience what makes Ulysse Nardin unique: independence, craftsmanship, authenticity, and a bold spirit.

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Karrishma Modhy is the Managing Editor at Fast Company Middle East. She enjoys all things tech and business and is fascinated with space travel. In her spare time, she's hooked to 90s retro music and enjoys video games. Previously, she was the Managing Editor at Mashable Middle East & India. More

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