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The ideas behind Girard-Perregaux’s rarest creations and why restraint now defines modern haute horlogerie

A closer look at the strategy behind fewer releases, finer craft, and lasting collector trust

The ideas behind Girard-Perregaux’s rarest creations and why restraint now defines modern haute horlogerie
[Source photo: Girard-Perregaux | Krishna Prasad/Fast Company Middle East]

Marc Michel-Amadry, Managing Director of Girard-Perregaux, leads the brand with a clear sense of what must remain immutable and what can be stretched. He insists certain design codes are inviolable, listing “the cushion-shaped case, the octagonal bezel, the Clou-de-Paris dial, the baton-shaped indexes and hands” as core to the Laureato’s identity. 

At the same time, he treats product strategy as a careful balance between commercial reach and collectible value, favouring restraint when a creation has strong collector potential. He is unapologetically proud of the brand’s manufacturing roots. “Girard-Perregaux was born a manufacturer in 1791, and we have since day one very proudly developed all our calibers in-house,” he says, while remaining open to collaborations that respect the brand’s legacy. 

On limited editions, he is plain: “I believe in ‘less is more,’” a rule that guides both design and distribution in markets such as the Middle East.

PRESERVING DESIGN, BALANCING VALUE

Certain design cues in the Laureato family and the Bridges collection are non-negotiable, forming the core identity of each line. Michel-Amadry explains, “Anything that, in terms of design codes, incarnates the fundamental identity of a collection. For instance, for our Laureato, there are a lot of clearly identified codes that need to be protected: the cushion-shaped case, the octagonal bezel, the baton-shaped indexes and hands, to name a few.” 

Beyond these visual markers, the watches must also meet high standards of comfort, ergonomics, and finish. “Other critical aspects need to be uncompromisingly respected, like the idea of ultimate comfort and ergonomics of the watch, having state-of-the-art haute-horlogerie finishes, the sophisticated touch and feel of the whole thing,” he adds.

That same philosophy extends into decisions around product releases. Deciding when a design tweak warrants a new reference versus a limited or boutique-exclusive release is a careful balancing act. 

“That is an excellent question, and a very difficult one to answer. Such a decision depends on how we want to balance the commercial aspect versus the collectible value of it,” says Michel-Amadry. 

Creations with significant commercial potential are often kept limited to enhance both value and desirability among collectors.

SELECTIVE RELEASES, ENDURING LEGACY

Balancing limited-edition theatrical drops with the core collection requires careful restraint to prevent confusion among collectors. Michel-Amadry explains, “If you want to be understood and make a strong statement towards the right communities of collectors, you need to limit the number of what you call the ‘theatrical drops.’” Limiting the number of releases is only part of the strategy; each creation must also carry meaningful haute horlogerie content and strong brand relevance.

That approach was clearly visible in the brand’s recent focus. He adds, “That’s why our entire focus during the Dubai Watch Week was behind our new Laureato Tourbillon under Three Gold Bridges, a creation of unbelievable haute horlogerie mastery merging the spirit of two Girard-Perregaux icons: the Laureato legend since 1975 and the Three Gold Bridges signature since 1867.” The approach proved successful, with collectors from around the world giving unanimous praise for the striking creation.

Girard-Perregaux is adopting a more selective approach to international distribution, prioritizing quality over scale. 

Michel-Amadry confirms, “That is fully correct that we aim to reduce the number of stores in which we are present.” But the goal goes beyond simply shrinking the network. He emphasizes, “What is at stake beyond reducing the size of our network is that we need to elevate the client experience and the haute horlogerie content in every location where Girard-Perregaux is. 

We want to do this in full intelligence with our retail partners.” The brand also plans to open uniquely conceived boutiques in key cities worldwide, which will be operated directly to ensure that each space reflects both precision and prestige.

In-house movement development remains central to Girard-Perregaux’s long-term value proposition, forming a core part of its identity. Michel-Amadry emphasizes, “We have very proudly developed all our calibers in-house. This is part of our DNA, and there is no reason to deviate from that philosophy.” The brand benefits from a team of master watchmakers and movement developers with “incredible expertise” capable of creating even the most complex haute horlogerie complications. 

According to Michel-Amadry, this capability is “gold for a haute-horlogerie maison like ours.” While open to collaboration with other talented watchmakers, he notes that such partnerships “can only make sense if this collab is faithful to our rich legacy and our DNA.”

MATERIALS, MOVEMENT, AND MASTERY

Innovation at Girard-Perregaux moves in tandem with both movement and material, a philosophy central to the brand’s next generation of watches. Michel-Amadry explains, “It has to be both. 

Girard-Perregaux has always been at the forefront for both, and will continue to do so.” A striking example is the creation of the Constant Escapement in Carbon-Silicium, introduced during Dubai Watch Week. The case of this unique limited edition is crafted from powders of carbon, silicium, and silicium carbide using a process the company keeps secret, resulting in a material that is ultralight, twice as light as titanium, while highly resistant to scratches. At the same time, the watch integrates “our highly sophisticated constant escapement movement, a revolutionary and one-of-a-kind escapement mechanism that is synonymous with rate regularity and ultimate precision,” illustrating how the brand pushes the boundaries of both materials and mechanics.

The Middle East has become a pivotal region for Girard-Perregaux, playing a key role in the brand’s growth strategy. Michel-Amadry says, “The Middle East becomes more and more a critical region for Girard-Perregaux, and I am very proud of that.” This significance was underscored by the brand’s strong presence at Dubai Watch Week, where visitors experienced the Girard-Perregaux pavilion. “Everyone was impressed with the brand experience they got,” he notes. 

Collectors and aficionados in the region continue to stand out for their knowledge and enthusiasm. “I could witness again how watch collectors and aficionados in this region are so passionate and sharp in their haute horlogerie tastes. I am really impressed,” he adds. 

The brand is already creating tailored timepieces for this market and plans to continue developing watches specifically for its discerning clientele.

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Karrishma Modhy is the Managing Editor at Fast Company Middle East. She enjoys all things tech and business and is fascinated with space travel. In her spare time, she's hooked to 90s retro music and enjoys video games. Previously, she was the Managing Editor at Mashable Middle East & India. More

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