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What’s fine dining’s next course in the Middle East?

A new class of chefs and storytellers is blending heritage, sustainability, and indigenous ingredients into a bold new culinary language.

What’s fine dining’s next course in the Middle East?
[Source photo: Krishna Prasad/Fast Company Middle East]

The fine-dining world is undergoing a paradigm shift. A new generation of restaurants, chefs, and dining experiences in the Middle East is asserting influence. In doing so, they are decentralizing the notion of where culinary excellence resides and, in the process, redefining what “fine dining” means.

No longer is excellence defined solely by a Parisian dining room or a Manhattan tasting menu. Instead, Dubai’s gastronomy boom and Manama’s fusion of heritage and luxury, which absorb diverse cultures and cuisines, are rewriting the rules. These cities, home to people from around the world and visited by tourists from all over the globe, are emerging as serious contenders in the fine dining scene.

RE-AWAKENING A FORGOTTEN PALATE

Preserving the region’s culinary heritage is crucial, not only for its culinary significance but also as an essential aspect of cultural diversity. 

Emphasizing the importance of teaching audiences to appreciate indigenous flavors and ingredients, Bahraini chef Tala Bashmi says, “I have to re-educate people’s palates… You’re never going to be able to shape or change anyone’s palate without trying to educate.”

Embracing the storytelling aspect of food is becoming increasingly important. Chefs and artists are now using food to convey narratives, weaving tales that range from culture to food memories.

There are, of course, challenges in telling meaningful cultural stories in the fast-paced digital age. It is nearly impossible, says Nadir Nahdi, a storyteller and filmmaker with a diverse heritage. “We’re battling against an evolving algorithm, which is increasingly censoring and prioritizing content that is baseless and entertaining in the wrong ways. 

“You have to make people feel like they want to keep watching while learning something in the same place.”

Both Bashmi and Nahdi see the power of their respective mediums as tools for bridging cultures. Bashmi reflects on food as a “Trojan horse” for storytelling: “When I started using food, I realized people outside my cultural background could relate. Food is a Trojan horse—it gets people to learn the story behind it.”

In the evolving fine dining scene, the story element is a natural progression from the sensory play, adding another emotional layer. And a good story can engage us like nothing else.

SUSTAINABILITY IN PRACTICE

Sustainability is another shared concern, though approached through different lenses. Bashmi notes, “All of our spices come from all over the world… I work with dishes that are in season, and I cook small quantities. I’m not feeding thousands of people a day. I follow the seasons, and that’s how I do it.” 

Nahdi emphasizes the importance of spotlighting cultural and ethical sustainability in his content: “Sustainability for me, coming from the Global South, is embedded in community, slowness, and evolution over time… Both the farmer and the produce deserve dignity and integrity.”

Asma Khan, restaurateur and founder of Darjeeling Express, addresses sourcing indigenous ingredients while maintaining authenticity: “One of my most popular recipes in my first cookbook is a courgette dish, which is my mother’s torai [ridge gourd in Hindi].”

She adds that it’s important to plan in advance. “If you’re going to get a fragile ingredient, have backups of things that you will use it for. If nobody orders it, if something goes wrong, utilize it. The priority should be… let’s be kind to it, and let’s use it fully.”

CHALLENGING THE WESTERN FINE DINING PARADIGM 

As an advocate of regional cuisines, Khan adds another dimension, linking food, gender, and social justice. Reflecting on her all-women kitchen, she says, “I never began with that objective, but it has become that I was just trying to celebrate these incredible women who have been working with me during my supper clubs at home… Everyone told me, ‘Don’t use them. Hire professional chefs, preferably male, because you’re likely to be unsuccessful. You’re going to fail.’ And I was like, ‘No, watch us set the world on fire.’”

Critiquing traditional fine dining, Khan says, “This whole idea of courses of one-inch food coming on eight-inch plates is not our cuisine. Imagine going to a meal and your grandmother gave you a one-inch portion of food, then waited for you to eat it… It’s bizarre.”

Khan emphasizes culinary sovereignty rooted in home-cooked values. “I did not want to compromise on what I was serving in my restaurant, because it’s a reflection of who I am and the chefs… It’s my battle cry for justice, equality, and against the racism and prejudice that people have for people like me.”

Beyond culinary and digital storytelling, all three emphasize personal accountability and cultural preservation. Nahdi cautions, “A big way of navigating it is digital literacy. People need to get used to what’s real online. We also have an intellectual obligation to ourselves, not to take things at face value.” 

Khan echoes this with a focus on sustainability: “I would not necessarily use fragile ingredients that don’t last. Everything should have a purpose, and repurposing is very important. You need enough stories to be told, and that’s what I’m trying to do.”

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