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12 exquisite men’s watches redefining luxury at Watches and Wonders 2024

Delve into a curated selection of premium men's watches at Watches and Wonders, where brands like Cartier, Hermès, Vacheron Constantin, and Jaeger-LeCoultre take center stage.

[Source photo: Images: Supplied | Krishna Prasad/Fast Company Middle East]

At the annual Watches and Wonders exhibition in Geneva, enthusiasts were treated to a mesmerizing display of the finest luxury timepieces. This year, the event illuminated the stage with a focus on innovative men’s watches, as several brands introduced creations that seamlessly merged design with technology.

From heritage brands reimagining classics to newcomers disrupting the scene, here are a few names that caught the eye with their remarkable men’s watches at Watches and Wonders 2024.


Santos de Cartier Dual Time Watch

Santos de Cartier Dual Time Watch

Cartier made a significant impact at Watches & Wonders 2024, presenting a trio of men’s timepieces that epitomized the brand’s dedication to heritage, innovation, and a delightful touch of elegance.

Basking in the limelight was the revered Tortue timepiece, a timeless classic first unveiled in 1912. In a bold move, Cartier revealed a new monopoussoir chronograph complication for this year’s rendition, boasting a singular pusher to command all chronograph functionalities. Staying true to the original design philosophy of harmonizing curves with precise lines, the updated Tortue exudes a refined allure.

Elongated horns and a sleeker silhouette elevate wearability without sacrificing its distinctive aesthetic appeal. These exclusive timepieces are offered in limited editions, with 200 numbered pieces available for the standard model and only 50 for the platinum-set variant.

Cartier introduces the Santos Dumont Rewind, a limited-edition timepiece that adds a playful twist to traditional watch design. Inspired by aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, this watch features reversed Roman numerals on its dial, offering a whimsical take on time display. The apple-shaped hands are driven by a distinctive mechanical movement with reversed manual winding, allowing wearers to “rewind” time at will.

In addition to the Santos Dumont Rewind, Cartier presents the Santos de Cartier Dual Time. Its steel case integrates with the tapered bracelet, creating a harmonious aesthetic. Rhodium-finished, luminous sword-shaped hands ensure clear visibility, even in low-light conditions. The watch also features a faceted seven-sided crown and a discreet grey counter for a second time zone, blending refined functionality with timeless elegance. Available in steel or leather, this timepiece continues the legacy of practicality and elegance established by the Santos collection.

Cartier brings a touch of whimsical charm by introducing the all-new Santos Dumont Rewind. This limited-edition masterpiece rearranges the Roman numerals on its dial, playfully reversing the traditional time display.

Drawing inspiration from the adventurous legacy of aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, this timepiece showcases apple-shaped hands driven by a distinctive mechanical movement with reversed manual winding, offering the unique ability to “rewind” time at will.

Exemplifying modern sophistication, the new Santos de Cartier Dual Time epitomizes elegance. Its steel case integrates with the tapered bracelet, creating exquisite balance. Rhodium-finished, luminous sword-shaped hands ensure optimal visibility even in dimly lit environments, while a faceted seven-sided crown and a discreet grey counter for a second-time zone offer refined functionality. This timepiece is available in steel or leather and continues the Santos collection’s practicality and timeless elegance legacy.


Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Watch

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Watch

Vacheron Constantin broadens the appeal of its beloved Overseas collection by introducing a captivating new dial color – a serene and stylish green. The sunburst satin finish infuses the dial with a mesmerizing depth, heightened by the velvety rehaut encircling the inner ring. Available in various sizes and functionalities, from a sleek 35mm case to a chronograph variant, this new hue caters to a diverse array of tastes.

Catering to discerning collectors, Vacheron Constantin unveils a lavish timepiece meticulously crafted entirely in platinum – from the case to the crown, dial, clasp, and even the stitching on the strap. This 42.5mm masterpiece houses the in-house Calibre 3200, renowned for its 65-hour power reserve. This watch displays horological distinction by combining two of watchmaking’s most prestigious complications, a single-push chronograph and a tourbillon adorned with the brand’s iconic Maltese cross design. 

Limited to just 50 pieces, the Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph earns its place in the esteemed Collection Excellence Platine.

The brand also pushes boundaries with a unique concept watch co-created with artist Yiqing Yin. This timepiece bridges the worlds of high watchmaking, perfumery, and haute couture. Sparkling with 92 diamonds, the 18k rose gold watch boasts a mesmerizing purple mother-of-pearl dial with a pleated texture. However, its most intriguing aspect lies in the lilac-hued strap, which subtly emits a bespoke fragrance with every wrist movement, elevating timekeeping to a truly sensory journey.


Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire watch

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire watch

Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces an array of new timepieces, particularly the reimagined Duometre Quantieme Lunaire (Moon Phase) watch for 2024. Drawing inspiration from historical sector dials, the design showcases sunray-brushed rings encircling each subdial.

The curved edge of the dial blends with the box crystal, while subtly recessed subdials contribute to a sense of depth. The opaline main dial exudes a radiance juxtaposed against the sunray-brushed lower section. Adding refinement, power reserve indicators are highlighted by opaline arcs against a sunray background.

Jaeger-LeCoultre elevates watchmaking with the Duometre Chronograph Moon. This timepiece integrates the precision of a chronograph, measuring fractions of a second, with the enchanting allure of a moon phase complication. Driving this harmonious fusion is the newly developed Calibre 391.

On the one hand, the clock swiftly captures fleeting moments with its lightning-fast 1/6th of a-second precision. On the other hand, the moon phase display and accompanying day/night indicator gracefully depict the slower, yet equally captivating, lunar cycle of 29.53 days.


Hermes Paris Arceau Duc Attelé watch

Hermès Paris Arceau Duc Attelé watch

Hermès introduces an impulsive twist to the refined Arceau watch with two new limited-edition models. Designed by Henri d’Origny, the Arceau embraces metamorphosis, and these latest renditions exemplify Hermès’ artistic finesse.

Drawing inspiration from the “Chorus Stellarum” silk scarf by Daiske Nomura, the watches showcase a dynamic scene on their dials. Intricately engraved and hand-painted mobile yellow gold appliques portray spirited skeleton riders on horseback. Activated by a concealed pusher, these miniature figures spring to life with a touch, gracefully prancing around a gilded constellation crafted using the champlevé technique.

Continuing the celestial motif, Hermès introduces a new zodiac-inspired design, showcasing symbols from the Émile Hermès collection. Vibrant lacquer-coated motifs and applied rhodium-plated stars form a captivating tapestry across the dial. These mesmerizing Arceau watches are offered in a numbered limited edition of just six pieces.

Adding to its repertoire, Hermès presents the classically elegant Arceau with a technical twist in the form of the Arceau Duc Attelé. This 43mm timepiece, available in titanium or rose gold, boasts a distinctive blend of high complications: a central triple-axis tourbillon and a “tuning-fork” minute repeater.

The intricately crafted carriage of the tourbillon, shaped with intertwining double Hs, pays homage to Hermès’ rich heritage. These entwined letters reflect the ironwork in the Parisian boutique, while the hands subtly mimic the graceful form of a galloping horse. 


Van Cleefs and Arpels Pierre Arpels watch

Van Cleefs & Arpels Pierre Arpels watch

Van Cleef & Arpels made a notable impression at Watches & Wonders by introducing two captivating men’s timepieces.

Among them is the Pierre Arpels Heure d’Homme, drawing inspiration from Pierre Arpels’ inaugural design in 1949. This watch displays Van Cleef & Arpels’ interpretation of masculine elegance, boasting a slender case and refined aesthetics. Its slightly beveled profile ensures a comfortable fit beneath a shirt cuff. The minimalist dial, adorned with ultra-slim hands and the brand’s iconic quilted motif, radiates sophistication and understated charm.

The Pierre Arpels Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs presents a poetic variation, incorporating a dual-time zone complication that beckons the wearer on a perpetual journey between imagination and reality.


Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II watch

Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II watch

Rolex is broadening its Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II collection with two new stainless steel iterations. Both models showcase a captivating two-tone ceramic bezel in grey and black, enhanced for clear readability with a platinum-coated scale. While one version sports a traditional Oyster bracelet, the other embraces a modern Jubilee bracelet. A black lacquer dial with green highlights harmonizes with the watch’s color palette.

At the core of the GMT-Master II lies Rolex’s pioneering Calibre 3285 movement, celebrated for its accuracy, extended power reserve, and unwavering reliability. Housed within a sturdy 40mm Oyster case, these latest GMT-Master II models boast up to 100 meters of water resistance. Additionally, Rolex unveils its Perpetual 1908 collection with a fresh platinum rendition for 2024. This timepiece showcases a mesmerizing ice blue dial with a captivating guilloché rice-grain motif. The intricate three-dimensional pattern lends depth and visual allure to the watch face.

The new Perpetual 1908 retains its classic charm with Arabic numerals, faceted hour markers, and hands akin to the 18-karat gold versions. A luxurious brown alligator leather strap with a folding clasp completes the look.


Patek Philippe World Time with Date watch

Patek Philippe World Time with Date watch

Patek Philippe introduces the Reference 5330 to its permanent collection, featuring a groundbreaking patented complication: an automatic date display synchronized with the local time zone.

Formerly a limited edition, the Reference 5330 simplifies time zone adjustments, seamlessly showcasing the local date alongside the chosen time zone indicated by the city disk at 12 o’clock. Enhancing readability, Patek Philippe incorporates a transparent glass date hand with a red lacquered tip, ensuring clarity without obscuring essential information.

The Reference 5330G-001 captivates with its elegant blue-gray opaline dial center embellished with a mesmerizing carbon motif. The integrated 24-hour disk elegantly displays day and night indications, featuring a small gold sun for noon and a crescent moon for midnight. The city disk includes a red dot marking the International Date Line between Auckland and Midway Island.


Zenith Defy Extreme Diver watch

Zenith Defy Extreme Diver watch

Zenith introduces the highly anticipated DEFY Skyline Chronograph, a 42mm stainless steel timepiece offering a contemporary interpretation of the brand’s legacy. The iconic octagonal case, a DEFY hallmark, receives a modern update with sharper angles and a multi-faceted bezel, blending durability with a bold, edgy aesthetic.

Available in black, blue, or silver, the DEFY Skyline Chronograph features a mesmerizing starry sky motif on the dial, complementing the traditional El Primero chronograph layout. Three slightly overlapping subdials for elapsed seconds, minutes, and constant running seconds complete the ensemble.

In a nod to its heritage, Zenith reintroduces the DEFY Diver, originally launched in 1969, as a cornerstone of the DEFY collection. Retaining the signature angular case and dodecagonal bezel, the modern DEFY Diver incorporates essential dive watch elements like a rotating bezel and high-contrast colors for underwater legibility.

Inspired by historic DEFY divers and the modern DEFY Extreme, the new DEFY Diver merges form and function. Designed to excel in the most demanding environments, from icy terrains to ocean depths, this feature-packed tool watch ensures enhanced performance and legibility for every adventure.


Ulysse Nardin Freak [S NOMAD] watch

Ulysse Nardin Freak [S NOMAD] watch

The Freak S Nomad by Ulysse Nardin exemplifies the brand’s unwavering commitment to haute horlogerie and high watchmaking art. This exquisite timepiece is a captivating blend of technology and meticulous artistry.

A standout feature of the Freak S Nomad is its hour disc, positioned behind the innovative carousel “spaceship” movement. Adorned with a captivating diamond guilloché pattern and finished in a sand-colored CVD, reminiscent of desert dunes, each disc is a testament to the skill and dedication of artisans honing their craft over years of training and refinement.

The technical prowess of the Freak S Nomad is equally remarkable. This watch has a revolutionary double oscillator movement with silicon balance wheels and escapements coated in DIAMonSIL, pushing the boundaries of horological innovation.


Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramitech watch

Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramitech watch

Panerai ventures into groundbreaking material science by introducing the Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramitech (PAM01466 and PAM01543). This innovative timepiece showcases the use of Ti-Ceramitech, a material developed by Panerai.

Inspired by materials used in high-performance environments, Panerai spent seven years perfecting a Plasma Electrolytic Oxidation process. The result? A blue material that is 44% lighter than steel while boasting durability – 10 times more fracture-resistant than traditional ceramic.


At Watches & Wonders, IWC Schaffhausen unveiled the standout piece from their latest releases: the Portugieser Eternal Calendar. Unlike traditional perpetual calendars, which adjust for leap years every four Februaries, this innovative timepiece goes beyond. It features a 400-year gear that ensures leap years are skipped at the turn of the century, effortlessly navigating the intricacies of the Gregorian calendar. The moon phase display is equally impressive, crafted with meticulous precision to rival the accuracy of the cosmos, deviating from the lunar cycle by just a day every 45 million years.


Lange & Söhne marks the 25th anniversary of its iconic Datograph chronograph with an exclusive limited edition. Limited to just 125 pieces, the Datograph Up/Down comes in 18k white gold with a captivating blue dial—a first for the brand.

Since its debut in 1999, the Datograph has become a legend in haute horology. Powered by the original L951.1 movement, it remains the cornerstone of A. Lange & Söhne’s chronograph collection features 13 models. This intricate movement includes a column-wheel design, a flyback function, a jumping-minutes counter, and Lange’s signature outsize date.

A standout feature of the model is the “Up/Down” power reserve indicator at 6 o’clock, displaying the watch’s winding status with an “AUF” (up) and “AB” (down) indicator. As the hand enters the red zone, it signals the need for winding.

While the blue-dialed Datograph Up/Down is a limited edition, enthusiasts can still explore the Datograph’s legacy through existing models available in platinum and pink gold, featuring classic black dials.

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